Cutting and Styling Curly Hair

Cutting and Styling Curly Hair | Dallas Hairstylist – Ladan

Observing how a hair stylist deals with curly hair is a sure means of separating a master hairdresser from an amateur.

Correctly styled curly hair consists of soft, organized bundles of hair that form well-organized but are also random coils that hang naturally.  What we want to avoid is Frizz, which consists of excessively curly hair that has disintegrated into individual fibers that explode in every direction and form a giant rats nest.

To cut curly hair we need a balanced cut that is light on top to sustain density but where the cut is heavy enough at the bottom to prevent massive clumping.  The hair should not be of one length or aggressively layered to leave either the top or bottom too heavy.  Fail here and the hair will be flat and lifeless.  If the hairdresser uses thinning shears or texturizing scissors, short hairs will immediately explode into a Friggen Frizzen mess.  No amount of product can fix this one.  Once cut, we blow dry the hair to a straight condition to allow a precise check of the balance and distribution of weight.  At this point, the client can elect to wear the hair straight or we can elect to go for a naturally curly look.

To get the natural curl, we will rewet the hair and use a towel to remove bulk water using a squeeze and release motion with no rubbing of the towel against the hair to shear the beautiful soft bundles we are seeking.  Once bulk water is removed and the hair is still wet, we will apply a light-weight leave-on conditioner and a very light mousse.  We will then dry only the roots of the hair and let the remainder air dry slowly.  This will result in the formation of very soft and well defined curls.

My husband, a chemist and physicist, tells me that these soft curls are the result of moisture retained on the hair, which prevents the proteins of the hair from recoiling into tight little springs.  The mousse sustains the slight adhesion between the hair fibers to sustain the bundles and prevent the formation of a disorganized Frizz.  He tells me that I am doing some elegant chemistry and physics with my clients.  Who knew?

P.S. – Check out this cool article on curly hair from Popular Science

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